Showing posts with label aperature. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aperature. Show all posts
Saturday, August 24, 2013
How to photograph autumn-AWESOME photography tutorial
Continuing with how to photograph autumn, this is a fantastic video on capturing autumn!
Monday, July 1, 2013
Saturday, June 29, 2013
Monday, June 17, 2013
Digital Photography - Flower Photography
There can never be enough said about capturing the beauty of flowers!
Here is an excellent article from The New York Institute of Photography.
Flower Photography
When you photograph flowers, you have to make a couple of important decisions.
As with any photograph, your first decision is to decide: What's my subject? Is it a bouquet of flowers, or the macro view of a stamen? A single flower closeup? A bed of hundreds of flowers? A field of thousands?
From this decision will flow many specifics of the picture you want to take and how to go about it.
Let's start with the macro photo — that is, with extreme closeups. Of course, you can only take this type of picture if your lens has a macro mode. With macro, you're focusing from a few inches! Many of today's point-and-shoot models do have this type of capability.
When we talk about what you see in your camera's viewfinder, bear in mind that we're thinking of the viewfinder in a single lens reflex (SLR) camera, where you see the image as the film or chip will see it – through the lens that takes the picture. The viewfinders on point-and-shoot cameras don't work very well when you're extremely close to your subject. That means with a digital point-and-shoot, you should use the camera's LCD viewing panel to make certain the lens is pointed at your intended subject.
When you take a macro photo, focus is all-important. Your plane of focus is very shallow — just a fraction of an inch. So you have to make another decision: Exactly what part of the flower do you want to be in sharp focus? The pistil? The stamen? A petal? (We've run out of high-school biology terminology, but you get the idea.) Unless you're a botanist, you will probably make this decision "on the fly" — that is, as you look through the viewfinder. When you see the image that you want, press the shutter!
While it is possible to take a good close-up photo handheld, our advice is to use a tripod if at all possible. Particularly if the flower is swaying in the wind, changing the focal point every moment, you're better off not adding the additional confusion of a swaying camera too. Use a tripod and be patient. Most often, the wind will die down from time to time and the flower will stand still and "pose" for an instant. That's the instant to shoot!
While on the subject of wind, here are some other tips: If the wind is blowing hard and steady, the flower will probably sway incessantly and fast, so that you will be hard-pressed to get the shot. Consider waiting for another time — perhaps, the next day — when the wind has died down. If you must shoot during an unremitting wind, place a makeshift shelter around the flower to protect it from the wind. A few sheets of poster board may be sufficient. (Of course, keep the shelter out of the picture!) Or tie the flower stem to a thin post (the type you will find in any garden center).
How should you expose this shot? The easy way is to trust your meter. It will generally give a fairly accurate reading in this situation. For pinpoint exposure, however, we recommend that you use a gray card or take an incident reading. By using one of these alternative methods, you end up with an exposure that is precisely calibrated to the light, and is not affected by the color or reflectivity of the flower.
Macro flower shots can be pretty. But if you want to turn the ordinary macro shot into an extraordinary photograph, try to add something of interest. What? How about a bee gathering pollen? Or a spider crawling inside? Or a butterfly? Now you've got something to grab the viewer's attention beyond a pretty picture. This type of photograph may not come easy — you have to wait for the critter. But if you wait long enough and your patience is rewarded, you can end up with a really great photograph.
Let's move on to consider the shot of a single flower head. Much of what we said for the macro view applies here too. As before, you can't get close enough for this type of picture with point-and-shoot cameras. Once again, you'll be better off using a tripod if possible. Remember also that you don't have to make pictures of single flowers while you're bent over in the garden. Over the years many great photographers have made wonderful still life studies of flowers in a studio setting where there's no wind and the photographer has precise control over the lighting. Whether you're taking pictures indoors or out, once again exposure will be more precise if you use a gray card or take an incident reading. And the picture will often be improved if you can add a crawling critter.
Good focus is still important, but it's not as critical as it was with the macro. The zone of good focus is now a few inches, not just a fraction of an inch. So, while you still want to focus well, you don't need to watch focus quite so critically.
An added decision for you to make with this type of shot is to consider the direction of light. It's possible to take a very attractive picture with the light in its "usual" position, streaming from behind you toward the flower. But give strong consideration to backlighting — that is — light coming from behind the flower, toward the camera. Since flower petals are usually translucent, backlighting can give them an iridescent glow that accentuates the flower's color and brings it to life.
How should you decide which light is best? Easy. Walk around the flower, observing how it looks through the viewfinder from different positions. Keep a sharp eye. You may see an appealing shadow from one position. A glow of iridescence from another. Maybe you can get both together. Walk around, and then take your picture from the position that appeals most to your eye.
We should add two words of warning here. First, when the light comes from behind you, watch your own shadow carefully. Usually, you want to avoid casting a shadow on the flower. Second, when you are shooting with the flower backlit, watch out for flare. You don't want the incoming light to shine directly into your lens producing ghostlike blobs. (You can avoid flare by either positioning your camera so that the light doesn't shine directly into your lens, or by shading the lens with your hand or a hat or any other opaque object. Just be sure that the object is kept out of the image frame.)
There's a second additional decision to make when you are shooting a single flower head. How high or low do you want the camera to be?
In other words, from what angle do you want to shoot the flower?
Once again, the answer is best determined by your eye. As you walk around the flower to watch the play of light from different sides, also look through the viewfinder to see how it looks from different heights. Don't be lazy. Lie down to see it from a squirrel's-eye view. Stand up and raise your tripod to see it from a bumble-bee's view. Let your eye decide which you prefer. Also, in addition to the lighting, consider the tonality of any background that will be visible in the photograph. Brown dirt, green grass, or blue sky can give a very different feeling to the photo.
Let's move on to bigger floral subjects. What about a bed of flowers...or a field of them? Here, you can probably use a point-and-shoot as well as a DSLR. A tripod is less necessary. Focus is no longer critical — it can extend for feet or even miles. And metering with your built-in meter will probably produce a good result.
What about the direction of light? It still can make a difference. If you can check how the flowers look from different sides, by all means do so. Frontlighting may be all right. Backlighting — or sidelighting — may be better. Camera angle — that is, height — is usually less important in this type of long shot. (You should still stoop down to see if the image is improved from a low angle that will accentuate the nearest flowers.)
What should you look out for here? We think you should go back to the very first decision: What's your subject? A bed or field of flowers may look exquisite to your eye, but often makes an awfully dull picture. Look for something that will add interest to the picture. Something else that will draw the eye of the viewer and be the subject of your picture, with the flowers acting as swatches of color that complement it.
If you're photographing a flower bed, look around. Perhaps, a child playing amidst the flowers will make a far more interesting picture. Or the house behind it. Or the apple tree in the foreground? Or the fence in the background. Or anything else you can find to draw the viewer's eye and add interest.
Do the same with a field of flowers. Is there a barn that would make a better subject? A tree? A windmill? A lone person far out in the field. A babbling stream? A majestic mountain landscape?
Chances are if you look around you'll find lots of potential targets that will add considerable interest to your photograph.
To sum all of the flower photography tips up: Flowers are colorful and can make beautiful photography subjects when you're close up and they fill the frame. You're better off finding another subject, and using the flowers as an "accessory," when you're shooting from farther away.
NY Institute of Photography
The New York Institute of Photography has been a provider of high quality photography education since 1910. With more than 100 years of experience, they've trained more successful photographers than any other school in the world.
They currently offer three great photography courses: The Complete Course in Professional Photography, The Complete Course in Digital Photography, and the Fundamentals of Digital Photography. Located in the heart of New York City, NYIP School has graduated students of their home-study programs all over the world, currently serving students in over 150 countries worldwide.
In addition to producing these courses, the New York Institute of Photography continues to produce high-quality, original content and photography tips for anyone interested in photography. This content is written and prepared by student advisors and instructors, who are all professional photographers employed by the school.
I learned so much from NYIP!
This photo was taken in my sister Cate's garden!
Here is an excellent article from The New York Institute of Photography.
Flower Photography
When you photograph flowers, you have to make a couple of important decisions.
As with any photograph, your first decision is to decide: What's my subject? Is it a bouquet of flowers, or the macro view of a stamen? A single flower closeup? A bed of hundreds of flowers? A field of thousands?
From this decision will flow many specifics of the picture you want to take and how to go about it.
Let's start with the macro photo — that is, with extreme closeups. Of course, you can only take this type of picture if your lens has a macro mode. With macro, you're focusing from a few inches! Many of today's point-and-shoot models do have this type of capability.
When we talk about what you see in your camera's viewfinder, bear in mind that we're thinking of the viewfinder in a single lens reflex (SLR) camera, where you see the image as the film or chip will see it – through the lens that takes the picture. The viewfinders on point-and-shoot cameras don't work very well when you're extremely close to your subject. That means with a digital point-and-shoot, you should use the camera's LCD viewing panel to make certain the lens is pointed at your intended subject.
When you take a macro photo, focus is all-important. Your plane of focus is very shallow — just a fraction of an inch. So you have to make another decision: Exactly what part of the flower do you want to be in sharp focus? The pistil? The stamen? A petal? (We've run out of high-school biology terminology, but you get the idea.) Unless you're a botanist, you will probably make this decision "on the fly" — that is, as you look through the viewfinder. When you see the image that you want, press the shutter!
While it is possible to take a good close-up photo handheld, our advice is to use a tripod if at all possible. Particularly if the flower is swaying in the wind, changing the focal point every moment, you're better off not adding the additional confusion of a swaying camera too. Use a tripod and be patient. Most often, the wind will die down from time to time and the flower will stand still and "pose" for an instant. That's the instant to shoot!
While on the subject of wind, here are some other tips: If the wind is blowing hard and steady, the flower will probably sway incessantly and fast, so that you will be hard-pressed to get the shot. Consider waiting for another time — perhaps, the next day — when the wind has died down. If you must shoot during an unremitting wind, place a makeshift shelter around the flower to protect it from the wind. A few sheets of poster board may be sufficient. (Of course, keep the shelter out of the picture!) Or tie the flower stem to a thin post (the type you will find in any garden center).
How should you expose this shot? The easy way is to trust your meter. It will generally give a fairly accurate reading in this situation. For pinpoint exposure, however, we recommend that you use a gray card or take an incident reading. By using one of these alternative methods, you end up with an exposure that is precisely calibrated to the light, and is not affected by the color or reflectivity of the flower.
Macro flower shots can be pretty. But if you want to turn the ordinary macro shot into an extraordinary photograph, try to add something of interest. What? How about a bee gathering pollen? Or a spider crawling inside? Or a butterfly? Now you've got something to grab the viewer's attention beyond a pretty picture. This type of photograph may not come easy — you have to wait for the critter. But if you wait long enough and your patience is rewarded, you can end up with a really great photograph.
Let's move on to consider the shot of a single flower head. Much of what we said for the macro view applies here too. As before, you can't get close enough for this type of picture with point-and-shoot cameras. Once again, you'll be better off using a tripod if possible. Remember also that you don't have to make pictures of single flowers while you're bent over in the garden. Over the years many great photographers have made wonderful still life studies of flowers in a studio setting where there's no wind and the photographer has precise control over the lighting. Whether you're taking pictures indoors or out, once again exposure will be more precise if you use a gray card or take an incident reading. And the picture will often be improved if you can add a crawling critter.
Good focus is still important, but it's not as critical as it was with the macro. The zone of good focus is now a few inches, not just a fraction of an inch. So, while you still want to focus well, you don't need to watch focus quite so critically.
An added decision for you to make with this type of shot is to consider the direction of light. It's possible to take a very attractive picture with the light in its "usual" position, streaming from behind you toward the flower. But give strong consideration to backlighting — that is — light coming from behind the flower, toward the camera. Since flower petals are usually translucent, backlighting can give them an iridescent glow that accentuates the flower's color and brings it to life.
How should you decide which light is best? Easy. Walk around the flower, observing how it looks through the viewfinder from different positions. Keep a sharp eye. You may see an appealing shadow from one position. A glow of iridescence from another. Maybe you can get both together. Walk around, and then take your picture from the position that appeals most to your eye.
We should add two words of warning here. First, when the light comes from behind you, watch your own shadow carefully. Usually, you want to avoid casting a shadow on the flower. Second, when you are shooting with the flower backlit, watch out for flare. You don't want the incoming light to shine directly into your lens producing ghostlike blobs. (You can avoid flare by either positioning your camera so that the light doesn't shine directly into your lens, or by shading the lens with your hand or a hat or any other opaque object. Just be sure that the object is kept out of the image frame.)
There's a second additional decision to make when you are shooting a single flower head. How high or low do you want the camera to be?
In other words, from what angle do you want to shoot the flower?
Once again, the answer is best determined by your eye. As you walk around the flower to watch the play of light from different sides, also look through the viewfinder to see how it looks from different heights. Don't be lazy. Lie down to see it from a squirrel's-eye view. Stand up and raise your tripod to see it from a bumble-bee's view. Let your eye decide which you prefer. Also, in addition to the lighting, consider the tonality of any background that will be visible in the photograph. Brown dirt, green grass, or blue sky can give a very different feeling to the photo.
Let's move on to bigger floral subjects. What about a bed of flowers...or a field of them? Here, you can probably use a point-and-shoot as well as a DSLR. A tripod is less necessary. Focus is no longer critical — it can extend for feet or even miles. And metering with your built-in meter will probably produce a good result.
What about the direction of light? It still can make a difference. If you can check how the flowers look from different sides, by all means do so. Frontlighting may be all right. Backlighting — or sidelighting — may be better. Camera angle — that is, height — is usually less important in this type of long shot. (You should still stoop down to see if the image is improved from a low angle that will accentuate the nearest flowers.)
What should you look out for here? We think you should go back to the very first decision: What's your subject? A bed or field of flowers may look exquisite to your eye, but often makes an awfully dull picture. Look for something that will add interest to the picture. Something else that will draw the eye of the viewer and be the subject of your picture, with the flowers acting as swatches of color that complement it.
If you're photographing a flower bed, look around. Perhaps, a child playing amidst the flowers will make a far more interesting picture. Or the house behind it. Or the apple tree in the foreground? Or the fence in the background. Or anything else you can find to draw the viewer's eye and add interest.
Do the same with a field of flowers. Is there a barn that would make a better subject? A tree? A windmill? A lone person far out in the field. A babbling stream? A majestic mountain landscape?
Chances are if you look around you'll find lots of potential targets that will add considerable interest to your photograph.
To sum all of the flower photography tips up: Flowers are colorful and can make beautiful photography subjects when you're close up and they fill the frame. You're better off finding another subject, and using the flowers as an "accessory," when you're shooting from farther away.
NY Institute of Photography
The New York Institute of Photography has been a provider of high quality photography education since 1910. With more than 100 years of experience, they've trained more successful photographers than any other school in the world.
They currently offer three great photography courses: The Complete Course in Professional Photography, The Complete Course in Digital Photography, and the Fundamentals of Digital Photography. Located in the heart of New York City, NYIP School has graduated students of their home-study programs all over the world, currently serving students in over 150 countries worldwide.
In addition to producing these courses, the New York Institute of Photography continues to produce high-quality, original content and photography tips for anyone interested in photography. This content is written and prepared by student advisors and instructors, who are all professional photographers employed by the school.
I learned so much from NYIP!
This photo was taken in my sister Cate's garden!
Sunday, June 16, 2013
Digital SLR Macro Photography
More about macro photography!
This particular discipline in photography is a favorite of mine! I love getting close up to flowers, most insects and objects that capture my attention. Every photograph tells a story!
Here is another excellent post about macro photography!
Do I Really Need A Macro Photography Lens?
So, what's the big hype over macro lens photography? Well, it's one of the most satisfying types of photography one can do. The macro lens is designed to shoot up close detailed pictures. Some people often ask "Can't I just use a cheap lens and get in real close"?
This is an answer that's hard to answer it's really going to depend on what you as a person is looking for. If you're looking for horrible quality, then sure use a cheap lens and move in close and take some pictures heh. On the other hand if you want really good pictures you're going to need to invest in a good macro lens. I personally like going after 1:1 magnification but again that's my personal choice.
Most people use 100mm focal lenses but you can get a way with using a 60mm. Another lens you can look into is a 180mm telephoto lens. What makes these lenses great is their ability to in extremely close on the target which completely fills the frame.
Some ask if a zoom lens is good enough for macro photography. Truth is experience photographers will tell you not to cut any corners and go with a 100mm lens, this will ensure you're ability to take quality macro photos
The good thing about macro lenses is they can be used for other types of shots. The macro lens will cost you some money but you one be sorry once you take your 1st picture. Other types of photography these lenses are good for are: Portraits, wedding pictures and journalism based photography.
This particular discipline in photography is a favorite of mine! I love getting close up to flowers, most insects and objects that capture my attention. Every photograph tells a story!
Here is another excellent post about macro photography!
Do I Really Need A Macro Photography Lens?
So, what's the big hype over macro lens photography? Well, it's one of the most satisfying types of photography one can do. The macro lens is designed to shoot up close detailed pictures. Some people often ask "Can't I just use a cheap lens and get in real close"?
This is an answer that's hard to answer it's really going to depend on what you as a person is looking for. If you're looking for horrible quality, then sure use a cheap lens and move in close and take some pictures heh. On the other hand if you want really good pictures you're going to need to invest in a good macro lens. I personally like going after 1:1 magnification but again that's my personal choice.
Most people use 100mm focal lenses but you can get a way with using a 60mm. Another lens you can look into is a 180mm telephoto lens. What makes these lenses great is their ability to in extremely close on the target which completely fills the frame.
Some ask if a zoom lens is good enough for macro photography. Truth is experience photographers will tell you not to cut any corners and go with a 100mm lens, this will ensure you're ability to take quality macro photos
The good thing about macro lenses is they can be used for other types of shots. The macro lens will cost you some money but you one be sorry once you take your 1st picture. Other types of photography these lenses are good for are: Portraits, wedding pictures and journalism based photography.
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So, what's the big hype over macro lens photography? Well, it's one of the most satisfying types of photography one can do. The macro lens is designed to shoot up close detailed pictures. Some people often ask "Can't I just use a cheap lens and get in real close"?
This is an answer that's hard to answer it's really going to depend on what you as a person is looking for. If you're looking for horrible quality, then sure use a cheap lens and move in close and take some pictures heh. On the other hand if you want really good pictures you're going to need to invest in a good macro lens. I personally like going after 1:1 magnification but again that's my personal choice.
Most people use 100mm focal lenses but you can get a way with using a 60mm. Another lens you can look into is a 180mm telephoto lens. What makes these lenses great is their ability to in extremely close on the target which completely fills the frame.
Some ask if a zoom lens is good enough for macro photography. Truth is experience photographers will tell you not to cut any corners and go with a 100mm lens, this will ensure you're ability to take quality macro photos
The good thing about macro lenses is they can be used for other types of shots. The macro lens will cost you some money but you one be sorry once you take your 1st picture. Other types of photography these lenses are good for are: Portraits, wedding pictures and journalism based photography.
One thing to pay close attention to when getting a lens is the rating of the aperture. You're going to want a lens that is wide enough to do 2 things. 1. Blurry background shots when using really wide apertures and 2. Low lighting, it's a must to have lens that is good in low light.
Once you ad this lens to your arsenal you'll wonder how you ever shot without it. I mean even if you are using the cheapest dslr camera the lens allow when up the quality of your photography 10 fold. It really does make a huge difference.
Due keep in mind this isn't a magic fix the person behind the equipment is just as important as the equipment itself.
If you're not in the market right now for a Macro lens but need a good prime lens I would suggest reading this review on the Canon 50mm 1.8 II It doesn't cost more than $120 but it's image quality is that of a $500.00 lens
Greg
For more information on great macro lenses or 50mm Lenses please visit bestdslrlenses.com
I use a macro lens for all my close up photography, including portrait photos.
This photo was taken with a macro lens in my sister Cate's garden!
This is an answer that's hard to answer it's really going to depend on what you as a person is looking for. If you're looking for horrible quality, then sure use a cheap lens and move in close and take some pictures heh. On the other hand if you want really good pictures you're going to need to invest in a good macro lens. I personally like going after 1:1 magnification but again that's my personal choice.
Most people use 100mm focal lenses but you can get a way with using a 60mm. Another lens you can look into is a 180mm telephoto lens. What makes these lenses great is their ability to in extremely close on the target which completely fills the frame.
Some ask if a zoom lens is good enough for macro photography. Truth is experience photographers will tell you not to cut any corners and go with a 100mm lens, this will ensure you're ability to take quality macro photos
The good thing about macro lenses is they can be used for other types of shots. The macro lens will cost you some money but you one be sorry once you take your 1st picture. Other types of photography these lenses are good for are: Portraits, wedding pictures and journalism based photography.
One thing to pay close attention to when getting a lens is the rating of the aperture. You're going to want a lens that is wide enough to do 2 things. 1. Blurry background shots when using really wide apertures and 2. Low lighting, it's a must to have lens that is good in low light.
Once you ad this lens to your arsenal you'll wonder how you ever shot without it. I mean even if you are using the cheapest dslr camera the lens allow when up the quality of your photography 10 fold. It really does make a huge difference.
Due keep in mind this isn't a magic fix the person behind the equipment is just as important as the equipment itself.
If you're not in the market right now for a Macro lens but need a good prime lens I would suggest reading this review on the Canon 50mm 1.8 II It doesn't cost more than $120 but it's image quality is that of a $500.00 lens
Greg
For more information on great macro lenses or 50mm Lenses please visit bestdslrlenses.com
I use a macro lens for all my close up photography, including portrait photos.
This photo was taken with a macro lens in my sister Cate's garden!
Friday, June 14, 2013
Digital SLR Photography-What is Macro Photography?
Continuing with close up and macro photography, which is one of my favorite ways to photograph!
Macro and close up photography focus on minute details of flowers, insects and other images without the interference of objects in the background!
Here is an excellent article with a detailed explanation on macro photography!
What Is Macro Photography?
One of the most satisfying forms of photography, and one of the easiest to master is macro photography.
A practical way for defining macro photography is by the strength of the lens, or how nearby it can focus. For true macro photography, you'll want to have a lens that focuses down to a 1:1 range. For example,for 35mm film,your camera has to have the ability to focus on an area at least as small as 24×36mm ,because this is the size of the image on the film.After having the film developed,the picture of the subject on the negative or slide will be exactly the same size as the subject photographed.
What makes macro photography seductive is the level of detail that you see, sometimes for the first time - familiar objects become unusual and abstract and unusual objects become even more interesting.
There are many applications for macro photography: flowers,plants,butterflies, minerals,snowflakes... Your own backyard, a local garden,beach or forest can provide you with hours of fun with macro photography.
Of course macro photography isn't always centred on the natural world. Collectors use macro photography to record coins,stamps and other collectibles that are very small.Some people use macro photography for documenting their possessions for insurance purposes or to illustrate their auction listings online.
Working with macro photography can be a whole new visual event for even the most advanced photographers.Every day can yield another subject and an endless supply of captivating images.The possibilities of macro photography are limited only by your imagination.
If you are interested in macro photography, then by all means consider purchasing a dedicated macro lens.SLR digital cameras with interchangeable lenses are ideal for macro photography.If you're primarily interested in outdoor photography, consider a 180mm or 200mm macro lens.
Alternatively you can use extension tubes,reversing rings, or close-up diopter lens.
An extension tube is placed between the camera body and the lens.There is no glass in the tube - its purpose is to move the lens farther from the film (or digital sensor) so that magnification can be bigger.
Reversing ring is attached on the front of a lens and makes it possible to attach the lens in reverse.
Close-up diopter lens are placed in front of the camera's main lens. These screw-in or slip-on attachments provide close focusing at very low cost.However,the quality of the pictures is variable.
Felix Zhucha
Felix Zhucha owns http://www.postersphotosartwork.com . Come and find popular art photographs and posters.
Here is a close up of three flowers taken in my sister Cate's garden!
This is an example of close up photography! The flowers are in focus but the background is blurred!
Happy photographing!
Ellen
Macro and close up photography focus on minute details of flowers, insects and other images without the interference of objects in the background!
Here is an excellent article with a detailed explanation on macro photography!
What Is Macro Photography?
One of the most satisfying forms of photography, and one of the easiest to master is macro photography.
A practical way for defining macro photography is by the strength of the lens, or how nearby it can focus. For true macro photography, you'll want to have a lens that focuses down to a 1:1 range. For example,for 35mm film,your camera has to have the ability to focus on an area at least as small as 24×36mm ,because this is the size of the image on the film.After having the film developed,the picture of the subject on the negative or slide will be exactly the same size as the subject photographed.
What makes macro photography seductive is the level of detail that you see, sometimes for the first time - familiar objects become unusual and abstract and unusual objects become even more interesting.
There are many applications for macro photography: flowers,plants,butterflies, minerals,snowflakes... Your own backyard, a local garden,beach or forest can provide you with hours of fun with macro photography.
Of course macro photography isn't always centred on the natural world. Collectors use macro photography to record coins,stamps and other collectibles that are very small.Some people use macro photography for documenting their possessions for insurance purposes or to illustrate their auction listings online.
Working with macro photography can be a whole new visual event for even the most advanced photographers.Every day can yield another subject and an endless supply of captivating images.The possibilities of macro photography are limited only by your imagination.
If you are interested in macro photography, then by all means consider purchasing a dedicated macro lens.SLR digital cameras with interchangeable lenses are ideal for macro photography.If you're primarily interested in outdoor photography, consider a 180mm or 200mm macro lens.
Alternatively you can use extension tubes,reversing rings, or close-up diopter lens.
An extension tube is placed between the camera body and the lens.There is no glass in the tube - its purpose is to move the lens farther from the film (or digital sensor) so that magnification can be bigger.
Reversing ring is attached on the front of a lens and makes it possible to attach the lens in reverse.
Close-up diopter lens are placed in front of the camera's main lens. These screw-in or slip-on attachments provide close focusing at very low cost.However,the quality of the pictures is variable.
Felix Zhucha
Felix Zhucha owns http://www.postersphotosartwork.com . Come and find popular art photographs and posters.
Here is a close up of three flowers taken in my sister Cate's garden!
This is an example of close up photography! The flowers are in focus but the background is blurred!
Happy photographing!
Ellen
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Sunday, June 2, 2013
SLR Digital Photography - Landscape Photography
Continuing with landscape photography, here is another excellent article!
Yesterday we talked about light.
First we discussed the color of light… You need to get up early in the morning and start shooting in the 20 or so minutes before dawn. AND you need to keep shooting for about 20 minutes or so past sunset.
At those times there is a phenomenon we will call a "false" sunrise and sunset that can produce some absolutely stunning colors in your landscape and cityscape photos.
Next we talked about the angle of the light… Think of bodybuilder photos. The light is coming from about 90 degrees to the subject. This creates a lot of shadows that accent and define their muscles.
At dawn and dusk, the glancing light from the sun is at the perfect angle to create a lot of defining shadows. This will add a lot of third dimensionality to your photos and make them come alive!
Try shooting the same scene at both dawn and dusk, then compare the results to the same scene shot at noon. You will never sleep in again!
Next we mentioned shooting when there are clouds in the sky. This will add a lot of visual interest to the scene - as well as a lot of color. Now the rising or setting sun has something to bounce off of! When the weather is bad… Get out there! That is the time you will get the best shots.
Today, let's add a couple more landscape photography tips and techniques.
Use a tripod! When shooting landscapes, particularly in the predawn and post sunset times - you will need a long exposure! (Creating an acceptable depth of field requires shooting at minimal apertures - which means long shutter speeds.) Don't even think of trying to get a contest winner by shooting handheld. It won't happen.
Then, use the mirror lockup feature if your camera has one. Most of the better DSLR cameras do For the ultimate in photo sharpness - in addition to locking up the mirror, use a timed shutter release. It may seem like a bit of overkill, but these sharpness techniques can and do make a big difference.
As far as composition is concerned, pay attention to the foreground! Use it to draw the viewer's eye into the photo. Use leading lines, framing, diagonals and so on.
Another compositional element to consider is the horizon, make it level! What is the most important element in your landscape or cityscape photo? Is it the sky? If so, put the horizon on the lower third of the shot. Is it the ground? Put the horizon in the upper third.
While there are times that placing the horizon in the middle is the right call, they are rare. Make sure you have a specific reason to do so!
Last but not least… Make sure your photo has a "star". What attracted you to the scene? Make sure you accent that feature and drive the viewer's attention to it. Don't make the mistake of trying to make the entire scene equally important. You need a star.
I hope this review of landscape photography tips and techniques will help you start getting contest winning landscape and cityscape photos!
In the excitement of the moment, it is easy to forget to do some of these admittedly basic but essential landscape photography tips and techniques (there are more coming tomorrow)...
Here is your assignment - start to make up a checklist (of these and any other landscape photography tips and techniques you can think of), have it laminated and stick it in the side pocket of your camera bag.
Every time you are shooting, you can pull out your landscape photography tips and techniques checklist and won't forget anything! Finally you will have the landscape photography techniques needed to let your artistic side shine through!
Dan Eitreim
To learn more and enroll in a FREE "photo tips" course, go to: http://OnTargetPhotoTraining.com
Bonus...You will also get YOUR free copy of "7 Secrets To Stunning Photos!" AND you'll get a FREE daily photo tips newsletter! Check it out!
Dan Eitreim has been a professional photographer in Southern California for over 20 years - his data base exceeds 6000 past clients, and he says that learning photography is easy, if you know a few tried and true strategies.
Though using a tripod will steady the camera and eliminate "camera shake", many new digital cameras have built in stabilizing features!
There are also photo software programs like Adobe or Ipiccy that will fix a photo that has blurring due to camera shake! Here is a landscape photo using the Depth of Field priority.
Saturday, June 1, 2013
Digital SLR Photography--Landscape Photography
There is more to landscape photography than just point and shoot and snap the photo!
Though there are many software programs that can enhance a photo, if you are serious about photography, it's necessary to time to learn how to set up photos so tweaking them will be minimal.
Here is another fantastic article about landscape photography!
Taking great landscape
pictures can seem so easy compared to shooting action photography or
taking pictures of children or animals. But any photographer that's
carried heavy equipment up a mountain to take a spectacular shot with no
success, will tell you it's a lot more than just showing up. Here are a
few things you can to do to get beautiful landscape pictures.
Focus On the Detail
Landscape photography is all about the details. The more detail you can capture in your image, the better it's often going to look. Detail and depth of field are both increased by longer exposure times, so try to use the highest F-stop value (22 on most cameras) whenever possible. This will allow less light into the camera and give you more flexibility in exposing the film. If you want to use a slower ISO film (around 100) this will also pull in more detail but be careful as slow films may not be the best for all lighting situations.
Hold 'em Steady
Even though a slower shutter speed will give you greater depth of field and detail, increasing the exposure time has its own problems. At a shutter speed of about 125, even the most steady handed photographer will struggle with "hand shake" blur so it's best to mount your camera on a tripod or brace it on a sturdy object. If you're using the bulb setting on your camera or a super slow shutter speed you may also want to consider getting a cable release. A cable release will help prevent the image from being ruined because of your hand movements pushing the shutter button.
Aim for Something
Picture an empty room with no windows- pretty boring isn't it? Just like any other picture, you need a subject in your landscape picture to make it interesting. No matter what kind of landscape you're taking, you want to have some type of focal point framed in the image. This may seem strange, but simply pointing a camera at a mountain and hitting the shutter isn't going to automatically result in an amazing photograph.
Think of the story of each photograph, and try to tell it in the frame.
Though there are many software programs that can enhance a photo, if you are serious about photography, it's necessary to time to learn how to set up photos so tweaking them will be minimal.
Here is another fantastic article about landscape photography!
Tips on Taking Great Landscape Photos
Focus On the Detail
Landscape photography is all about the details. The more detail you can capture in your image, the better it's often going to look. Detail and depth of field are both increased by longer exposure times, so try to use the highest F-stop value (22 on most cameras) whenever possible. This will allow less light into the camera and give you more flexibility in exposing the film. If you want to use a slower ISO film (around 100) this will also pull in more detail but be careful as slow films may not be the best for all lighting situations.
Hold 'em Steady
Even though a slower shutter speed will give you greater depth of field and detail, increasing the exposure time has its own problems. At a shutter speed of about 125, even the most steady handed photographer will struggle with "hand shake" blur so it's best to mount your camera on a tripod or brace it on a sturdy object. If you're using the bulb setting on your camera or a super slow shutter speed you may also want to consider getting a cable release. A cable release will help prevent the image from being ruined because of your hand movements pushing the shutter button.
Aim for Something
Picture an empty room with no windows- pretty boring isn't it? Just like any other picture, you need a subject in your landscape picture to make it interesting. No matter what kind of landscape you're taking, you want to have some type of focal point framed in the image. This may seem strange, but simply pointing a camera at a mountain and hitting the shutter isn't going to automatically result in an amazing photograph.
Think of the story of each photograph, and try to tell it in the frame.
Always Be Ready
Landscape photographers don't have the luxury of scheduling appointments or building their own light environments. You have to be able to work with factors outside of your control and take advantage of them on a moments notice. Shooting images in the early morning hours compared to dusk is very different and has a very limited timeframe for you to take the perfect shot. So, if you want to take an impressive landscape picture, you're going to need to have your camera gear packed up and ready for whenever an interesting moment appears.
Be Patient
Though it seems almost the opposite of being ready to run out the door at a moment's notice, understand that landscape photography can require an immense amount of patience. Every fascinating picture captured by a landscape photographer's lens, will often never be seen the same way again so you often have to be willing to wait it out.
Landscape photography is deceptively complex. From an outsider's perspective, it seems like all a photographer needs is a camera and some hills or a waterfall; understanding how the time, weather, and composition of these photos influences the final product is the mark of a true professional. With those couple of things, you can start taking great landscape pictures that you'll be proud to display on your wall.
Landscape photographers don't have the luxury of scheduling appointments or building their own light environments. You have to be able to work with factors outside of your control and take advantage of them on a moments notice. Shooting images in the early morning hours compared to dusk is very different and has a very limited timeframe for you to take the perfect shot. So, if you want to take an impressive landscape picture, you're going to need to have your camera gear packed up and ready for whenever an interesting moment appears.
Be Patient
Though it seems almost the opposite of being ready to run out the door at a moment's notice, understand that landscape photography can require an immense amount of patience. Every fascinating picture captured by a landscape photographer's lens, will often never be seen the same way again so you often have to be willing to wait it out.
Landscape photography is deceptively complex. From an outsider's perspective, it seems like all a photographer needs is a camera and some hills or a waterfall; understanding how the time, weather, and composition of these photos influences the final product is the mark of a true professional. With those couple of things, you can start taking great landscape pictures that you'll be proud to display on your wall.
Autumn Lockwood
Autumn Lockwood is a writer for Your Picture Frames. Shop online and see our selection of brown picture frames in a variety of styles, materials and sizes. Visit our website to see our beautiful brown picture frames and colorful orange picture frames or call 800-780-0699.
More on landscape photography next time!
To learn about aperature/shutter speed/depth of field, please visit our blog:
http://www.countrycharmphotography.lifesparknetwork.com
Here is a landscape photo using Depth of Field!
Though I focused on the trees, the foreground and the background are in focus.
More on landscape photography next time!
To learn about aperature/shutter speed/depth of field, please visit our blog:
http://www.countrycharmphotography.lifesparknetwork.com
Here is a landscape photo using Depth of Field!
Ellen
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